Want to know how to build a solar panel? Here is a step-by-step guide to get you started. |
If you decided to build your own solar panel and don't know where to start, this is a good place to do so :).
We really want to help you on your way to switching to cheaper, cleaner electricity even if you want to use it to cover only a small part of your electricity needs.
The aim of this article is to give you an overview of what it involves to make your own solar panels and get you going on the right direction.
Before starting your project, it's a good idea to understand why exactly you want to build your own solar panel.
If you seriously consider using solar energy to power your electricity home electricity needs, it's well worth investing in some good DIY solar panel guides which are now widely available on the internet. They have an abundance of information about home solar systems,
If you want your home solar system to last for many years, you should consider using higher quality, more durable materials for your panels / system components rather than settling for cheaper alternatives.
If your intention is, however, to use this opportunity to have some fun experimenting with solar power, or teach your kids or students how to make their own solar panels then go for it! You obviously do not need any expensive materials / guides but can go ahead with whatever is at hand to make it an enjoyable experience for everyone.
Here is how you can build a solar panel.
Getting your tools and materials ready is crucial before you start your project.
So what does building your own solar panel actually involve?
A diy solar panel is basically a box which consists of a frame (backing, substrate & border strips), solar cells, some wires and a cover.
You will need to build your panel's backing and substrate, tab solar cells and connect them into strings, then attach the cell strings to the substrate, wire them together and attach the cover to your panel.
So, briefly, you will need these materials:
Photo: Brian Dorey
and tools:
Go here for further information about tools & materials.
The frame will be the main support unit for all other components of your panel.
First, you will need to know the size of your panel to build your frame. And that will be determined by the number and arrangement of solar cells right inside the panel.
If you are trying to charge a 12 V battery as part of your home solar energy system, you will need 36 solar cells 0.5 V each for one panel. Your 36 cells will produce 18 V which will be enough to charge a 12 V battery. The standard recommended size for your solar cells is 3" x 6".
So you can arrange your cells in either of the following ways: 3 cells across and 12 cells down, 4 cells across and 9 cells down, or 6 cells across and 6 cells down in your panel. And the dimensions of your panel will follow from your chosen cell arrangement.
Once you know the dimensions, you can cut your material to size for the backing, border strips and substrate, attach border strips to the backing and paint them with UV protector paint.
Go here for further information on building your panel's frame.
If you decide to purchase untabbed solar cells for your panel, you will need to tab them first.
Tabbing simply means soldering wires to the front of each cell - this will allow them to be connected to each other in a row.
You will need to cut your tabbing wire to size (approximately twice the length of one solar cell) for all the cells you will be tabbing.
You will then need to solder two wire ribbons to the front of each cell.
This is what the front of each tabbed solar cell will look like:
We have full instructions on tabbing solar cells here.
You will now need to wire your cells into "strings of cells". They will be attached to the substrate to form a finished connection of all the cells inside your panel.
If the cell arrangement within your panel is 4 cells across and 9 cells down, then the length of each of your 4 strings will be 9 cells.
The loose tabs coming from the front of cell 1 will be soldered to the back of cell 2, tabs from the front of cell 2 will be soldered to the back of cell 3, and so on.
Go here for further information on connecting tabbed cells into strings.
Let's assume that you have decided to arrange your cells as 4 cells across and 9 cells down on your substrate (which will then be fitted inside the panel frame).
Once you have connected the cells into strings (9 cells each), you will then need to connect the strings to each other in rows.
So your aim is to connect the negative wires from the front of string 1 to the positive wires from the bottom of string 2 and so on, with another wire, until all your strings are wired together.
This is what the final layout of your strings on the substrate will look like:
First you will need to attach your strings to the substrate with silicone caulk and then wire the strings together as demonstrated in the diagram above.
We have full instructions on attaching strings to substrate & connecting them together here.
You will now need to fit your substrate inside the panel box and screw it carefully to the backing.
Once you have done that, you can wire the two tabs coming off from the two strings ("negative" and "positive") in the diagram above with copper braid, install a blocking diode into the positive wire if you need it, drill a hole in the middle center of the substrate & the backing and let the two wires slip through the hole right into the back of the panel, for external delivery of energy.
Test the panel to make sure it works just fine (see step 7) before sealing it.
It is time to secure the wires to the substrate with silicone caulk, let the silicone cure completely for a day or so, and then screw the cover to the panel.
Go here for full details on securing the substrate to the panel & attaching the panel cover.
To test your panel, you will need to place it in full sun and attach your multi-meter's negative lead to the negative lead of the panel and the multi-meter's positive lead - to the positive lead of the panel.
Take the voltage reading first: it should be around 18 volts for 36 cells of 0.5 V each.
Take the current reading second: it should be around 3.5 amps.
You now have a fully functioning, 60 watt solar panel.
Have you built any of your own solar panels for your home?
Would you like to share some of their photos (and stories) with us?
Would you like to share some tips as well - what worked, what didn't during the construction process?
Let your creations conquer the world!
Please use the form below to share your little gems :).
Last Update: October 2009